Mark Burgess DVM
Katrina Ramsell Ph.D., DVM
Murray Crossing Mall
6139 SW Murray Blvd.
Beaverton, OR 97008
(503) 643-2137
CARING FOR YOUR RABBIT
Rabbits are enjoyable pets and easily cared for. They can often be litter box trained and when socialized can be good house pets. The following information can help you keep your rabbit happy and healthy.
HOUSING
Outdoor rabbit hutches may be used; they need to be sturdy to prevent intrusion by raccoons or other animals, and must provide shelter from wind and rain. A 3- sided shed (1 side open) facing away from the prevailing wind is adequate. Rabbits are cold tolerant and can survive in an unheated hutch if provided with dry draft free conditions and bedding to snuggle into. They are heat sensitive and may die of heat prostration at temperatures over 80-85 F. Provide shade, plenty of water and a frozen milk jug to sit against on hot days, or bring the rabbit indoors. More often rabbits are housed totally indoors, either in a spacious cage or having the run of the house. Small breeds (such as Polish, Dutch & Netherland Dwarf) use a 24”x 30”x 18” cage. Medium breeds (such as New Zealands, Californians, and Satins) use a 30”x 30”x 18” cage. Giant breeds such as Flemish Giants and Checkered Giants need a 48”x 30”x 18” cage. If the floor is wire, provide a smooth surface (wood or cardboard) to sit on or the feet will develop sores. If the floor is solid, provide a deep straw layer to absorb urine and prevent soiling. A litter box filled with recycled paper or plant pellets may be used by some rabbits. Keep the cage clean, dry and well ventilated. Minimize chewing on metal or hard wood; instead provide cardboard toys (non-inked) to chew and play with.
FEEDING
The core of the rabbit’s diet should be hay and pellets. Pellets provide balanced nutrition; hay provides fiber. Pellets: The diet can be up to 75% pellets with young growing babies or pregnant & nursing females. Breeding females need pellets containing 18-20% protein. With nonbreeding adults use a 14-16% protein pellet as 30-50% of the diet (adjust amount to maintain proper weight). Approximate pellet feeding guidelines are: 1) Small breeds: 2 oz. daily (weight, not volume) 2) Medium breeds: 5-6 oz. daily 3). Large breeds: 6-8 oz. daily. Avoid mixes with seeds, nuts or dried fruits which may cause bowel problems and obesity. Always use some pellets in the diet; without these the risk of rickets and other nutritional problems is much higher. Two brands with superior formulations are Oxbow Bunny Basics-T (timothy based pellets) and Kaytee Exact. These have less calcium and protein than many standard pellets. A heavy bowl or metal hopper feeder will minimize food spillage & soiling. Hay: A grass hay should be fed free choice; timothy hay is the best. Avoid alfalfa hay (it is too rich), except in pregnant or nursing females where it may be added as 50% of the hay intake to provide more protein and calcium. Ideally put hay in a hopper or wire bin on the cage wall to minimize scattering and soiling of the hay on the cage floor. Wet and moldy hay or pellets can be toxic. Vegetables: Vegies may be fed as 10-15% of the diet; more may cause bowel upsets especially in older rabbits. The rabbit digestive tract is adapted for eating mostly grasses and high fiber plants unsuitable for human consumption; many vegetables humans prefer are too rich to feed to rabbits in large amounts. Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, dandelions, blackberry leaves, grasses, and parsley are the best tolerated. Adult carrot pieces and carrot tops are OK. Minimize foods high in sugar (fruits, baby carrots, tomatoes, corn); also limit items high in protein (seeds, nuts, oats, grains, beans, etc). Limit vegies in the cabbage family (cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, etc) as they may cause digestive upset if fed liberally. Avoid sweet treats such as yogurt drops. Feed no meat or dairy products. Feeding a few vegies daily is safer than giving a lot once weekly; the rabbit bowel dislikes sudden changes, and a rabbit may also overeat vegies if provided large amounts at one time. Introduce new foods gradually to see how they are tolerated; avoid any foods that cause diarrhea or appetite loss. Water: Provide clean water at all times; change it daily. In cages water bottles are best as rabbits tend to spill or soil water bowls. Check the bottle spout periodically to ensure it doesn’t plug.
HANDLING
Rabbits are easily frightened by sounds and movement. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears. Instead place one hand under the chest (behind the front legs) and scoop up the hindquarters with the other hand. Another method is to scoop the rabbit up with your forearm, holding it against your body with your arm underneath, the rabbit’s rear end in the crook of your elbow, and your other hand on top of the rabbit’s shoulders to prevent it from jumping away. Always support the rabbit’s weight from beneath and hold the rear legs securely tucked in; a rabbit may break its back while thrashing if picked up without supporting the rear legs.
ROUTINE CARE
Most rabbits are fairly low maintenance. You may need to brush or pluck your rabbit’s fur daily during molting (Spring & Fall) to reduce risk of stomach hairballs. Long haired breeds need regular combing to prevent mats and hairballs. Toenails need trimming every month or so; small dog or cat nail trimmers may be used. Avoid the pink nail base which will bleed if cut. Nonbreeding females should be spayed at 5-6 months old to prevent uterine cancer which is a common killer of older female rabbits.
COMMON DISEASES
SKIN MITES (CHEYLETIELLA): These are common and may produce no symptoms for months or years. The first sign is a patch of flaky “dandruff” over the shoulder area (on the back), which may slowly spread. Itching and hair loss occur in severe cases. Treatment is with mild insecticides. Bird mite/ lice sprays are safe; use weekly for 6-8 weeks.
EAR MITES: These are small mites which live in the ear & produce dry crusty debris in the canal. Symptoms may be absent, or may include head shaking, pawing at the ears, or ears held lower than normal. Treatment with oral Ivermectin usually eliminates the mites; stubborn cases may need ear cleaning and ear drops.
COCCIDIA: These are tiny intestinal parasites seen mostly in very young or stressed rabbits. They can damage intestines and liver, and occasionally are fatal. Symptoms are diarrhea, lethargy, weight loss (or poor weight gain), and rough coat. Treatment is prescription anti-protozoan medication.
“SNUFFLES” (Pasteurella): This is a respiratory disease caused by Pasteurella bacteria. It may be carried for months or years with no symptoms. Snuffles is highly contagious and can be fatal, especially in very young animals. Cats commonly carry Pasteurella but show no signs. Symptoms in rabbits are sneezing, runny eyes or nose, congested breathing, or weight loss. This disease may progress slowly or can rapidly cause death. Prompt treatment with antibiotics is recommended when symptoms are present.
INNER EAR INFECTION (HEAD TILT, WRY NECK): This is usually caused by Pasteurella bacteria, and can occur secondary to respiratory infection. Signs are dizziness & balance loss; the rabbit’s head may be twisted back or sideways. Prompt veterinary care and antibiotics are needed. A less common disease with similar signs is Encephalitozoon, a parasite which can affect the brain.
WOOL BLOCK OR HAIRBALLS: Blockages of the digestive tract can be due to impactions of food and hair in the stomach or bowel. This occurs more often on low roughage diets (e.g. no hay) and during molting. Long haired rabbits are especially at risk. A rabbit may swallow large amounts of hair when grooming; brush or pluck fur daily during Spring and Fall molting to minimize buildup of hair in the stomach. Hairball symptoms are slow appetite loss and decrease in size & number of fecal pellets. A veterinary exam can usually detect a hairball in the stomach. Medical treatment is often successful: give lots of fluids, and use papaya tablets (5-15 tablets daily). Alternatively fresh pineapple juice or papaya (not frozen or canned) may be used, but these are high in sugar and may cause diarrhea. Intestinal stimulants (Reglan) may help the stomach empty. Acidophilus is usually given to minimize diarrhea and bloating while the rabbit is stressed & fasting. In severe cases surgical removal of the hair ball may be needed. Occasionally a small hairball escapes the stomach but blocks the intestine; these patients become painful, weak and progress into shock & death within 4-12 hours. Emergency surgery is the only option with intestinal blockage.
DENTAL DISEASE: Rabbits have a variety of tooth problems, the most common being malocclusion and tooth abscesses. Malocclusion is the improper alignment of teeth resulting in tooth overgrowth. Rabbit teeth grow constantly. When incisors (front teeth) are misaligned they can’t wear down on the opposing teeth and can grow to extreme lengths. Gnawing on hard objects (wood, metal) doesn’t help wear down the incisors and may actually damage the teeth, helping to create a malocclusion. Molars (back teeth) may also overgrow due to misalignment, or due to tooth infection and pain which prevents normal chewing. Molars are worn down partially by chewing abrasive foods (pellets & hay). Symptoms of tooth overgrowth include weight loss, appetite loss, salivation, oral odor, and tooth grinding. Treatment includes trimming the teeth to proper length and correcting any underlying problems.
ENTEROTOXEMIA (BOWEL DISEASE): This is an intestinal upset caused by loss of normal intestinal bacteria with resulting overgrowth of harmful bacteria such as Clostridium. These are present in small numbers normally, but when abundant they produce toxins which absorb into the body causing shock and death. Disruption of the intestinal bacteria is the underlying problem; common causes include sudden diet changes, sugary items like fruit, high protein items like oats and alfalfa, low roughage diets lacking in hay, antibiotic usage (especially penicillins), or other diseases and stress (especially if fasting occurs). Mild bowel upsets may cause slight stool softening; severe cases have appetite loss, sometimes watery or mucoid diarrhea, and severe weakness. Treatment includes bacterial supplements (milk-free acidophilus, veterinary probiotics, or healthy rabbit fecal slurry) to reload the bowel with harmless bacteria. Bowel stimulants (Reglan) may help bowel function. Toxin binding drugs (Peptobismol, Toxiban) may help prevent absorption of bowel toxins into the body. Kaopectate and blackberry leaves may firm the stools. Forcefeeding roughage may help. Banamine can reduce pain and cramps. Severe cases need IV fluids and heat provided. Antibiotic usage is usually avoided. Severe cases can progress to coma and death within hours. If your rabbit is lethargic, not alert or eating, or acts uncomfortable or “hunched up” seek veterinary care immediately! Feed a high roughage diet with lots of hay & minimal treats to help avoid this disease.