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Water turtles are mostly small to medium sized turtles that spend time both in freshwater and on land. They have streamlined flattened shells and webbed feet, and are good swimmers. They breathe air, but some can remain underwater for hours, and in the wild may hibernate underwater the entire winter. Males tend to be smaller and flatter than females as adults, with longer tails and sometimes very long nails on the front feet. The most common pet turtles are eastern U.S. species such as sliders and painted turtles, but Asian box turtles and other exotic species are also sold. Aquatic turtles are often fairly hardy, being adapted to temperature changes as they dive from a warm sunny basking spot into much cooler water. Most of the species from east of the Rocky mountains are now prohibited in Oregon due to their ability to survive in local rivers and ponds if released. Unwanted pet turtles native to the U.S. can sometimes be taken in by local rehabilitators and shipped them back to their native habitat, where they are released in protected areas. The only two native Oregon turtles, the Western Pond Turtle and Western Painted Turtle, are both water turtles. These 2 species are protected and cannot be legally kept as pets here. Water turtles often reach adult breeding size within 5-6 years after hatching and may live 30-40 years or more. They tend to be feisty, quick moving and energetic, and can be entertaining.
Water turtles tend to be mostly carnivorous, but if healthy they may also consume some leafy green plant material. Many prefer to eat in the water, but some will accept food in a bowl on land. Good food items include earthworms (use nightcrawlers, not redworms or compost worms), slugs (not water snails), silkworms, and live fish (small enough to be eaten whole). Aquatic turtle food pellets should always be part of the diet as they provide a reliable vitamin and mineral source. They can be used as 25% to 90% of the diet, and are sprinkled on the water surface. Pretty Pets is one of the more palatable brands; T Rex is similar. Some leafy greens may be offered on land or shredded onto the water; good examples are collards, kale, dandelions, mustard greens, and green leaf lettuce. Avoid meats, liver, mealworms, waxworms, and crickets as these lack calcium and may cause a soft deformed shell.
If you can’t use a commercial turtle diet, then vitamins and minerals need to be provided in other ways, although achieving a good nutritional balance is more difficult. You can use a single powdered multivitamin-mineral supplement such as Reptocal or Reptivite; use a tiny pinch on the food once weekly, no more. Overdosing is easy with supplements, and some products are potentially toxic; it is safer to use a commercial diet which has a balanced supplement included.
Water should be kept clean at all times. Water turtles will drink while swimming, and also defecate in the water, so water quality is important (see Housing).
When you obtain a "wild pet" you must try to duplicate that pet’s natural conditions. An aquarium is usually needed to provide good housing, although the turtle can exercise in the house daily (up to 30 minute intervals), and temperate climate species can live outdoors in a pond if protected from predators such as raccoons. The aquarium top should be mostly solid, not screen, to trap heat & humidity. A minimum size for a small turtle would be 3 ¾ to 4 square feet of floor space (equivalent to an 18 x 30 inch or 24 x 24 inch enclosure.) Aquarium height is less important as the turtle lives on the bottom. About ½ of the enclosure should be water and about ½ dry land, to encourage basking. Aquarium designs can be fancy with large landscaped swimming areas and water filters similar to a fish tank. A simpler method uses a large plastic or steel water container that covers ½ of the cage bottom. Then fill the dry land portion of the cage with rock or other material up to the rim of the water container. If a piece of wood or plexiglass is used to hold the bedding in place, then the water container can be easily lifted out and the water changed without disrupting the dry ½ of the tank. Without a filter system the water should be changed daily to keep it clean.
Be sure the turtle can easily climb out of the water onto the dry basking areas. Basking allows the turtle to dry its shell between baths, to warm its body, and to absorb UV light. Artificial turf makes good flooring for the dry area as it can be cleaned and reused, and it can’t be eaten. Sand, small gravel, corn cob, wood chips, etc may be eaten and cause bowel blockages; if used they must be changed regularly when soiled. Daytime air temperature in the shade should be 70°-85°F for temperate species, and 75°-90°F for tropical species. Keep the temperature above 70°F even at night. Use a good mercury, digital, or dial-type thermometer which can be moved to check temperature in various locations at the cage bottom; the best readings are in total shade away from any heat source. Avoid color strip thermometers which stick on the cage wall as these are inaccurate. A reptile heat pad beneath the cage is one heating method; hot rocks can be used but should be covered (with turf or other rocks) to prevent burns from direct contact. Heat lamps inside the cage should be at least 18 inches above the turtle to prevent burns. If a heat lamp is used at night it should produce minimal light; the best are lightless ceramic-coated bulbs such as those made by Pearlco or Flukers. Dim purple or red night lights can also be used. Turtles are shy and the cage should be in a quiet area. They need hiding places on land to feel secure and bask, but you should try to avoid using dark caves or hiding boxes which block exposure to UV light. Instead provide objects such as plants or rocks to hide behind, or use paper to cover the cage glass in one corner, creating a private area which remains well lighted.
Lighting should be provided 12-14 hours daily, with the remainder being dark. You must provide white (visible) light and ultraviolet light in the 280-320 nm wavelengths (called UV-B). This mimics basking in the open sunlight. Our climate often provides little sun, and window glass or plexiglass filters out most of the UV light, so you need to provide sunlight artificially. The simplest lighting is fluorescent full spectrum bulbs; incandescent "screw type" round bulbs are not adequate. Some good brands include Reptisun by Zoomed, and Reptile D-Light. Other bulbs which produce less UV but are adequate include Verilux, Reptasun by Flukers, Reptiglo, Reptile Daylight by Energy Savers Unlimited (ESU), and Vita Lite by Durotest. These bulbs won’t burn the pet and need to be close to the turtle to be effective; in general the maximum effective distance is less than the bulb length. For instance, a common 24 inch tube should be within 18 inches of the turtle. Avoid glass or plastic barriers between the bulb and the pet as these block the UV light. Change these bulbs every 6-8 months when in use as they produce less UV light over time.
NOTE: more recently a few incandescent "screw type" round bulbs have appeared which do produce UV-B; these look like typical bulbs but are actually mercury vapor lamps. They produce both UV and strong heat, so should be kept at least 18 inches from the turtle. Their effective lifespan is uncertain; probably they are reliable for at least 1 year. These devices cost $45-$100 and when turned off must have a "cool down" period before they can be restarted. Incandescent bulbs which cost less and do not require a cool down period are simple filament-type bulbs and do not produce adequate UV-B.
Healthy turtles from temperate climates may be allowed to hibernate in the winter in an outdoor pond, or possibly in an unheated garage. Many species may hibernate underwater. The temperature needs to be below 55°F ideally, and day length should be short (winter hours), with no lights on past dusk. Normal hibernation can be difficult to achieve indoors, and it may be safer to keep a turtle active in the winter. Never hibernate a sick turtle.