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Skunks are cat sized animals distantly related to otters, minks, ferrets and weasels. They are generally friendly with pets and people. The only skunks legal to own come from rabies free breeder facilities approved by the Department of Agriculture. They are sold already ‘descented’. Various color forms are available, including black and white, brown and white, champagne (reddish) and white, and all white (albino). Skunks tend to be nocturnal but readily adapt to the owner’s schedule. Most are fairly calm in disposition, but occasional animals can be aggressive as adults. Many can be litter box trained. They should be confined when left alone, as they may be prone to destructive behaviors such as digging or chewing on objects in a home. When well socialized a skunk can be an affectionate and rewarding pet.
Skunks may be picked up around the midsection; never hold them by a leg or tail without supporting the body. With baby skunks you may need to train them to play gently; if the skunk grabs a finger and does not let go, you may flick the tip of the nose sharply with a finger (avoid the eyes!) to get your pet to release. They can be held by the scruff when needed, though with heavy adults the body should be supported under the belly as well.
Skunks are usually are housed in a spacious wire cage when not supervised; a 5 X 5 foot minimum size is recommended. Cages must be sturdy as skunks chew and claw strongly to attempt escape. Adults usually require separate housing to prevent fighting. They often sleep much of the day and awaken when the owner is around. They may be allowed to roam in the house with supervision. Their environment should be free of hazards. Skunks may chew (and swallow) pieces of rubbery items such as rubber toys, ear plugs, shoe soles, rubber mats, etc. These should be kept out of reach. Skunks like to dig in dirt, so potted plants may need to be out of reach. Digging behaviors may also damage carpets so you should observe your pet while not cage confined. Ideally fit your skunk with a collar (or harness) and small bell to help track your pet’s location. A collar also identifies a lost skunk as a pet to anyone who finds it. Slip the collar over the head already buckled to avoid over tightening. Identification may be printed on the collar. A pet microchip inserted under the skin yields permanent identification of your pet.
Skunks are omnivores, eating plant and animal food sources. They are very prone to obesity and need a balanced low fat diet. Dry or canned dog food should be part of the diet; with adults over 6 months old use only low fat formulas such as Hills W/D (fat content of 7% or less). When using a commercial food no vitamin supplements are needed. A few tartar control kibbles such as Hills T/D for small dogs can be given daily to help keep teeth clean. Vegetables can be fed as 50%-75% of the diet; use a nutritional guide to choose veggies with a good calcium/phosphorous ratio. Leafy greens are generally calcium rich; fruits are not and should be minimized. A few exceptions are papaya, raspberries, blackberries, grapes, apples, and mango which may be used in a mixed diet. Hardboiled eggs (may include the shell for calcium) minus the fatty yolks may be given occasionally, as well as nonfat yogurt, low fat cheese, and earthworms. Avoid mealworms, waxworms and crickets as they are fatty and lack calcium. Avoid nuts and seeds as they may cause obesity, and minimize sweet treats or milk products. Adult skunks should not have food constantly available but should be fed twice daily. Provide fresh water at all times; use a water bottle or very heavy bowl as skunks dig in water bowls and spill or soil the water frequently. Change water daily.
Home care may include nail trimming every 3-4 weeks. Tooth brushing with a canine/feline paste is recommended if the skunk is amenable to it; starting very young makes this easier. Bathing is optional but may reduce the skunk’s moderate musky odor. Pet skunks have been "descented" (anal sacs removed) before sale; spaying and neutering is recommended at 5-6 months old. Neutering or spaying reduces odor and eliminates reproductive diseases in the females; neutering may help reduce aggression in males. Avoid purchasing skunks which have been neutered very young by the breeder, as early neutering in other species has been shown to increase the risk of certain health problems
Veterinary care is important. Canine distemper vaccine should be given at 8,11 & 14 weeks of age and then annually; the safest is PureVax (Merial) which contains no actual distemper virus. Rabies vaccine is not approved for skunks. Skunks are susceptible to infectious canine hepatitis and leptospirosis, and vaccination for these diseases is discretionary. Unless regularly contacting unvaccinated dogs, the risk of a skunk’s exposure to hepatitis is low, and leptospirosis vaccine is not currently recommended routinely even in dogs. Skunks are NOT susceptible to feline distemper or canine parvovirus despite persistent rumors to the contrary. Annual visits for exam and vaccines are recommended for skunks 1- 5 years old; exams may be done every 6 months on skunks over 5 years old. An annual blood profile in skunks over 5 years old helps detect disease. Fecal samples and deworming are important as skunks often carry worms which may infect other household pets and even humans, sometimes producing severe disease.