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Chinchilla
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Photo courtesy of Monty’s Place - Chinchilla Rescue

CARING FOR YOUR CHINCHILLA

Mark Burgess DVM
Katrina Ramsell Ph.D., DVM
Murray Crossing Mall
6139 SW Murray Blvd.
Beaverton, OR 97008
(503) 643-2137

CARING FOR YOUR CHINCHILLA

Chinchillas are large rodents which inhabit the Andes mountains at high altitudes. They have been in captivity since 1923. They are clean, odorless, generally friendly pets but are often shy and easily frightened. They are probably not ideal pets for young children. Chinchilla fur is very soft, and various colors are available including silver, beige, black, and white. Their large ears and bushy tails contribute to their attractive appearance.

CHIN

Lifespan: 5-10 years (up to 18 years)

Pregnancy: 111 days average

Body temperature: 97-1000 F

Litter size: 1-5

Estrous cycle: 30-50 days

Weaning age: 6-8 weeks

CHILLA FACTS

 

 

 

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DIET

The diet should consist of grass hay such as timothy or orchardgrass (not alfalfa), and chinchilla pellets. If necessary a guinea pig pellet may be substituted. The pellets may be rationed if obesity occurs, but the hay is always fed free choice. Avoid pellet mixes with seeds, nuts or dried fruits as they may cause obesity or bowel upsets. Fresh vegetables (mostly leafy greens) may be used sparingly (up to 10-15% of the total diet). Restrict sweet items (fruits, corn, baby carrots, tomatoes, etc.) and high protein items (oats, beans, alfalfa, soy, nuts) as these may cause bowel upsets. Minimize vegies in the cabbage family as they may upset the bowel also. Fresh water should always be provided; a water bottle is cleaner than a bowl and can’t be spilled. Keep the food and water supplies very clean.

HANDLING

Chinchillas usually don’t bite but may jump out of your hands. They also are prone to “fur slip” wherein patches of hair come loose with rough handling. Always hold your pet firmly with one hand around the front of the body and the other hand supporting the rear legs. A towel may help with restraint if your pet is very jumpy or tries to bite.

HOUSING

Chinchillas should be housed in a well ventilated cage that is kept cool and dry. They don’t tolerated heat & humidity; their ideal temperature range is 60-720 F. Wire cages are usually used; glass or plastic cages must be well ventilated to minimize humidity and odor buildup. Wood cages are hard to keep clean and may be gnawed through. The cage floor can be wire or solid. Wire floors allow waste to fall through but may cause foot sores; cover the wire with thick straw or provide a solid platform (wood or cardboard) in one area to sit on. Solid floors should be covered with straw or paper bedding to absorb wastes; clean the cage often. Chinchillas are very active and require space; a good cage size is 6 ft X 6 ft X 3 ft with a one foot square nest box. If a smaller cage is used then ample exercise time outside the cage should be provided. Be careful to prevent chewing on wood furniture, baseboards, extension cords, etc. Chinchillas are not very social and are usually housed separately unless breeding.

Dust baths should be provided at least once to twice weekly to maintain healthy fur. The bath must be large and deep enough to allow the chinchilla to roll over in it. Finely powdered volcanic ash is used; several brands of “chinchilla dust” are sold. An alternative is a mix of 9 parts silver sand to 1 part Fuller’s earth. The dust should be provided for only a short time during the day.

BREEDING

Chinchillas tend to fight when housed together; females are more aggressive. Breeders often use polygamous colonies with one male having access to several females housed separately. Chinchillas breed all year, especially November through May. Females may attack the male so he should be able to leave the cage; the female may wear a collar which prevents her exiting the cage. Up to 20% of females may not breed, likely due to incompatibility with the male. Pregnancy lasts 105-115 days (ave. 111 days). Most births are in the morning; litter size is 1-5 babies (average 2). 

COMMON DISEASES

FUR SLIP: Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when handled roughly. Fighting between animals also may cause hair loss. The skin is not injured by fur slip but the coat may be unsightly.

BARBERING/ FUR CHEWING: This is a behavioral problem wherein the chinchilla chews its fur or another animal’s fur causing a rough moth-eaten appearance. Contributing factors may include boredom, dirty fur, diet imbalances, or hereditary factors such as a stress prone personality. Providing cardboard chew toys such as paper towel roll centers, minimizing stress and disturbances, keeping the cage clean, cool & dry, and breeding animals with low key personalities may reduce incidence of this problem.

HEAT STROKE: High temperatures and humidity aren’t tolerated by chinchillas. Overheated pets often lie on their sides and pant. They may feel hot to the touch. Excess humidity may produce unkempt, damp fur. Treatment starts with misting or bathing in cold water; veterinary aid should be quickly sought as this condition is often fatal.

ENTERITIS (INTESTINAL INFECTION): A common disease in chinchillas. Often the exact cause is uncertain. Bacterial, viral and protozoal agents have all been associated with forms of intestinal upset in chinchillas. A few causes include Pseudomonas, Salmonella, E. coli, and Giardia. Poor husbandry and diet may increase risk of an outbreak. Symptoms may include diarrhea, depression, appetite loss, abdominal pain or bloating, partial paralysis, and death. A fecal exam may aid diagnosis. Veterinary care should be quickly sought. Treatment includes antibiotic therapy and supportive care. Bacterial supplements such as milk free acidophilus may help; antidiarrheals such as kaopectate or blackberry leaves can be used. Bowel stimulants (Reglan, Propulsid) may be used if the bowel has stopped moving. Severe cases may receive IV fluids. Bowel upsets are often fatal if not caught early.

DENTAL DISEASE: Chinchilla teeth grow constantly. They are prone to several tooth problems. Malocclusion is a condition wherein the teeth don’t properly wear against each other and overgrow. Incisor (front tooth) overgrowth is visible; the teeth may achieve extreme lengths and protrude from the mouth like tusks. Molars (back teeth) may overgrow but aren’t visible; signs include drooling, oral odor, difficulty eating, and a wet or soiled chin. The causes of these problems are variable and may include infection, tooth trauma from cage bar biting, diet, and hereditary factors. Treatment includes grinding or trimming the teeth to proper length, and correction of any known underlying factors. Extraction of some abnormal teeth may be needed. Tooth abscesses may involve front or back teeth, and can result in facial swelling, odor, appetite loss, and loose or painful teeth. Treatment is via extraction of infected teeth, draining all visible abscesses, and long term antibiotics. Severe abscesses may involve large areas of the face and may be life threatening.

RESPIRATORY INFECTION: Respiratory infection can involve the nasal passages, producing sneezing or runny eyes & nose; severe cases can involve the lungs (pneumonia) and produce wheezing, lethargy, rough coat and labored breathing. Untreated this can be fatal. The infections are bacterial, and may be caused by Bordetella, Pasteurella, Pseudomonas, and E. Coli. Damp, dirty or drafty housing may increase risk of infection. Treatment includes antibiotics, supportive care, and correction of any underlying problems with the diet & environment.

RINGWORM (FUNGAL INFECTION): Trichophyton is a common fungus found in soil and on animals which can cause skin disease in chinchillas. Infected pets may occasionally transmit the fungus to other animals or humans. Signs are usually crusty or flaky skin around the face and ears, and sometimes on the feet. Hair loss and scabs may occur. Treatment involves topical or systemic antifungal drugs.

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